5 secrets to fortify your front and back doors like Ft. Knox
One of a burglar’s main goals when he breaks into a house is getting in and out of the residence as quickly as possible in order to minimize the chances of detection. A front or back door will almost always be his first choice, and if he discovers that those entry points are secure, he’s more likely to select another house than he is to try to break in through a window.
If you can secure the front and back entrances to your home, you will have greatly reduced the odds of being burglarized. There are other good ideas on safeguarding your home from thieves, some of which we’ve discussed in previous blogs including installing an alarm system and having a dog that barks when she hears noises outside the home. But for today I want to focus on doors.
Obtaining the right kind of door is your first step. Keeping those doors locked when you are home or away may seem like a no-brainer, but we all forget to do it sometimes. Other ways to make your doors as burglar-proof as possible are securing your sliding doors, reinforcing your entryways and installing peep holes. Check out this great piece on how to make your doors burglar-proof:
http://www.wikihow.com/Burglarproof-Your-Doors
Here are Five Secrets to Fortify Your Front Door Like Ft. Knox:
- Get the right doors. Hollow doors are easy to kick in, but solid wood, fiberglass and metal doors are not. Doors should not have windows on or next to them. Sliding glass doors should be covered on the outside by a security grate or grille, or secured on the inside by an unbreakable polycarbonate panel.
- Lock your doors. Install high-quality (Grade 1 or 2) deadbolt locks in addition to the doorknob lock. Bolts should be at least one inch long. A deadlock will serve as an additional lock for when you’re home. For your sliding door, place a thick, wooden dowel in the bottom track to keep it from being opened.
- Reinforce your entryway. This involves installing cylinder guards around the lock cylinders, replacing flimsy strike plates, securing exposed hinges and fortifying your door frame.
- Install viewers (also known as peep holes). Make sure you acquire the kind that provides a wide-angle view and then place it at eye level on all exterior doors.
- Add a storm door. A storm door that locks will give you an extra level of protection, not to mention keeping hot air out in the summer and cold air out in the winter.
Let me hear your thoughts regarding other ways to fortify your front and back doors. What experiences have you had with would-be burglars testing your doors? What lessons did you learn from those experiences?
“We all love DIY solutions, I second that. And it won’t drain your wallets. But when it comes to home security it’s not the best way.
Because in today’s world, safety is that much important. So find a good home security firm and spend some money. So that you can sleep well. And when it comes to home security, don’t think that a basic security system is enough. Many advanced home security products are available now.
Recently I installed a security gate from a security firm in Toronto. It’s really good. Will recommend it to anyone. So please invest a good amount of money in home security. You won’t regret it.”
Have you checked out UTS Group? I recommend their security systems
There is a great company called armornation they have a product called doorarmor it is inexpensive and I believe you can get it at Lowe’s it is endorsed by police departments you can see video on YouTube. Takes half a hour to install if you’re slow at it
I had a steel worker fabricate some old-fashioned steel 2 X 4 brackets which are mounted on the left and right sides of an entry door frame. I made a solid oak 2 X 4 crossbar which was undercut to hold a steel angle iron. Holes are drilled into the brackets so a pin can be inserted to prevent lifting the bar, which is fairly heavy as is.
Put a good dead bolt on the hinge side of an entry door. Set it lower than the normal level, so it is harder to find. It works like the side pins on the door of a safe, preventing the door from swinging open.
I too have done this to help secure my doors. I have also cut out window panels from 1/2 inch plywood. In my panels I have cut a 2 inch wide slot for my stevens 12 ga to protrude.
Next time, remove one screw from each hinge and install a 3-4” screw in its place. Leave the screw sticking out about a half inch and drill the door leaf if the hinge an shy the door to receive the head of the screw. Nobody will see that at all. A locksmith of 33 years.
one thing I found helps, while you shoring up the door use three inch screws to secure the strike plates. Taking them into the studs adds sturdier hold.
I love this product! http://www.goodbarsecurity.com/hinged-window-bars.html
I am a state certified crime prevention officer and it’s been my personal expirence that they will come in the window usually in the back of the house.
Good info, need great ways to make cheap windows safe.
A amazing post to read. You have certainly mentioned some very important points.Good Job. Keep it up.
I suggest that you Reset your doors to open to the outside but look as if they open to the inside. Anticipate that the majority of people in your area are right handed, so make sure your door opens for a left handed person. This puts them at a disadvantage from the onset. Further ensure you have a manual garage door lock that works with a door knocker as the outside handle, and of which can itself be unlocked by pressure from a set screw or other point.
I did this to my house in St Louis because of it being a high crime area and after I already had a breakin and major destruction of my contents. I never had it occur again, however other homes in the area were repeatedly broken into.
Haha, not only slick, but great ideas!
We spent $ 10,000 and installed all but two doors filled with Metal Hurricane protections around our home. One door is inside our Garage. One other door is Outside Spa room. One indoor window is 1/3rd open for fire escape in the main bedroom with all my weapons in that room, plus a $ 10,000 Safe Room, with Camera, alarms and anyone crazy enough to try to break in would probable be nuts, & I would use my weapons to stop them!
A couple of years ago, at dusk or dawn (very little light outside) I was sleeping soundly when an earth-shaking BAM woke me and set my watchdog to barking. I looked out (still very sleepy) and glimpsed a black person whisking/limping around the corner. Since I wasn’t fully awake I thought it was my friend who had come around back since I hadn’t heard the front doorbell, so I opened the back door and called her – my dog went rushing out to tear the intruder apart (but too late – gone over the now bent-down wire fence). What happened: The “BAM” I heard was their FAILED attempt at kicking in my patio doors – I’m happy to know he hurt himself a little. Those doors open outward instead of inward (I had them installed that way deliberately). Now, All of my outer doors (that open inward as most doors do) have been reinforced using easy-to-install door armor I got from this website: http://armorconcepts.com/Home-Security-Landing/. We also started a Neighborhood Watch. What the police said they found out that a group of thieves from the city traveled down the highway and targeted homes in my area (newly developed). They failed at my house and a neighbors, but they succeeded at a couple of others – mainly by entering the garage side-doors. After reinforcing my doors I also installed SimpliSafe alarms and use their monitoring service.
This is my statement on the army chaplain being railroaded &harassed, if a chaplain can’t preach the good news of hope of our wonderful Jesus, which is protected by America’s religious freedom, then there shouldn’t be anyone allowed to speak on any other religion.May God have mercy on the cowards and scoundrels on the day of judgement for going along with such vile trash. We need more Christians speaking up and letting the heavens be heard.AMEN!
There is nothing like having digital locks on the front and also the back door. The locks help you secure your home, and also inform you via smartphone or mobile device if someone is trying to make undesired entry. The locks are easily available both on and offline and since I have been using digital locks, I have breathed a sigh of relief.
True convenience and security in an up grid lifestyle, but in the event of an EMP or extended power down scenario, you are locked out. Tech is good, but always have a backup Plan.
Make sure at least one screw in each of the hinges into the door is an inch longer than the standard length. More importantly, one screw in each hinge into the frame should be two inches longer than the standard length.
I was a police officer for years and the most distressing calls I went on were housebreak-ins. In all cases the thugs ransacked the place, top to bottom, broke and destroyed nice things, and took their time. Turned every dresser drawer up side down–people hide money, valuables,, guns. Easy to pick up jewelry TV’s, electronics were always taken. Unlocked doors, lots of them. Kicked in doors-lost of them, especially doors in lower wells. Basement windows small enough for a midget to climb through, sliding windows, sliding glass doors, windows over a porch that can be climbed from a rose garden trellis-all were used. In some cases the thief knocks on the door-no one answers-just kick it open. It’s amazing much noise attracts so little attention, especially in the day ttime, everybody at work. Biggest thieves-the company your kids bring home. Night time burglary is also popular in my neighborhood-but thefts from unlocked cars is exploding. Primary items used to be GPS units, now it’s airbags, and catalytic mufflers. But the inside of your UNLOCKED CAR are the source of house keys and other cars, also garage openers, insurance and registrations documents, parking meter changen ot to mention the absurd/stupid- wallets and purses with credit cards, iphones and tablets and computers with every piece of information to Identity Theft you bankrupt.
Local case-3 Am Citizen reported -thieves rattling around inside their garage-they called
police-call police hell-I’d call for someone to fix the 9mm holes where I cranked off a few. The noises, well, that was the thieves ,,,,,loading up an SUV with everything in the garage and downstairs in the locked garage-How did they get in? They took the garage door opener and keys from #1 SUV from the OPEN garage last week but did not take the vehicle. Now they came back, opened the door, ready to load up #1, but instead loaded up Veh#2, with keys in it, stole it and stole the #1 vehicle with the keys from last week, a 2 for 1 deal.
The impending doom-opocolypse, discussed so much is already here -every day. Lock every door ALL THE TIME, in or out, day or night. Local case-Neighbor comes home from store, lugs groceries in, lays purse on table with food, goes to kitchen-man comes in takes purse -she walks in, see him,he walks out, gets in a car-another man driving, takes off. A local woman-raking leaves and working in her side yard-walks around front-a woman is walking out her door. What are you doing in my house? Oh, I’m at the wrong address, walks away to a waiting car. All the homeowners jewelry, wallet, keys– gone off her dressing table. LOCK YOUR DOORS IN OR OUT -DAY AND NIGHT.
All the hints to fortify your house-do it but don’t leave the door open for fresh air and not expect someone to come in and commit evil.
Sliding doors can be lifted out of the tracks and be removed easily. Drill a hole just above the door top through the upper track and insert a nail through the hole. The door then cannot be lifted out of the track.
There is nothing like having “burglar bars” on doors and windows. We had wrought-iron bars on a house previously owned and nobody ever challenged them over the the five years we lived there. They were nicely designed, and very stout. Their very appearance suggested….don’t even try!!
Great advice Terry! I had to go to CA and leave my wife in our apartment in VA a number of years ago. Although 2 Deadbolts. solid 1″ door, inside hinges still did something to the bedroom door. Located wall studs. bent soft steel (2) for each side of the inside of the door so that a two by four could easily be laid into both. Just visualize this and you can do it. Very safe!
Your remarks are too abbreviated for this 76 year old lady to make sense of. Perhaps a man would know what you’re talking about, What and where were the wall studs located? You put bent steel on the inside of the bedroom door?
he bent (or welded) heavy flat iron in a z-pattern, on 90˚ angles tho. to the left and right of the doors he wanted to secure, he located the wall studs (or door frame) and after drilling 2 or 3 holes in one side of the “z,” he attached both to the marked studs……at the same heights from the floor. his 2 x 4 now lays in the brackets, or cradles that are attached to the studs. :))
I have the same setup – with five in lag screws into studs – one bar high and one low on every door. Hinge screws are 3 inches. Exterior walls are reinforced five feet high with three layers of HardiBoard (concrete tile backer panels) – these, added to existing wall structure is impervious to 9mm, .45, and 12-guage at point blank. Plus all windows are minimum four feet off the ground, and have fabricated 1/2 inch rebar panels ready for two minute install per window. None of this is for every day – just for SHTF – on a daily basis, doors and widows remain unlocked 24/7, vehicles also. Mom’s house is the same. I have had no issue for twenty years -Mom has had no issue for over fifty years. If I were a thief and really want in someone’s house, I would just take a chainsaw and cut a hole.
Good design Dave, but my reply is personal– I have a cousin named Dave Minigh, might that be you, notice my name… There;s less than 400 Minigh’s in the U.S.
I keep doors locked 24-7 because I grew up in bad neighborhoods. To keep from locking self out, we made little sign to hang on back door knob warning when door is locked when going out for smoke break or yard work.
I’ve read about metal barricade rod that can be installed on inside of door but have been unable to find source. Any hints or ideas?
Another issue is the stairs from basement that open into sun room. I view this stairway as fire safety but it’s not locked or secure from intruder access. The door covering it is quite heavy but I’d like to secure it from outside access while keeping it accessible from below.
like this?: http://www.bilco.com/foundations/store/storepage.asp?page=barracuda
Excellent products! Thanks for sharing.
I love this product! http://www.katybar.com/shop/select-type-new-2.cfm
Your previous article made me get a personal alarm system. It is not monitored except by us, no contracts.
We arm it at night and it makes a signal when a door is opened during the day. I have one for each door and a low window. In addition I will install a “stop-stick” inside our bedroom door at bedtime These have a “wishbone” that goes under the door knob and a rubber wedge on the other end that is able to hold the door closed if someone pushes on it. Together with a great barking dog, I should have time to get my Glock or 28″ pump shotgun ready for any intruder.
Congratulations on being able to sleep more soundly at night.
Also thumb locks on the metal window frames, top and bottom.
Schllage semi commercial deadbolts, bump proof. The lock smith sold me these locks for the patio doors, sorry I forgot what they are called, but the door frame has a part and the door has a part that has two sliding parts top and bottom. they go together so the door can not be moved up and down and are very solid. Screw screws in to hinge side let them stick out about 1/3 and inch, cut the heads off and drill a hole to receive them where they hit the door frame.
But Fort Knox is EMPTY ! so what kind of a recommendation is that?
I have two sliding doors on the side entry to my home. It is a crooks dream because they are hidden from the neighbors by trees and bush’s. So I bolted a 6’X9′ jail wall with a door for entry. One guy who came to my yard sale complained about it in such a way, I figured he had wanted to come back and pick up his items for free.
For quite a while, burglars simply use a “BUMP KEY” – Search for those words, and you’ll see the problem. Youtube even has Vids of how to MAKE a ‘bump key’. New locks are available ( I got QUIKSET ones) that are bump-proof. How do I know? Some STUPID would-be burglar destroyed my Schlage lock trying to use one! He did NOT gain entrance… Brian in Tampa…
I recently bought Door Clubs from Amazon. Had them installed on all doors, including some of our inside doors for added security. Love them!
Locks are helpful and are a nice deturant! But locks are only for honest people! Most invasions happen while no one is home! I highly recommend a camera system so when you home gets invaded you will have pictures of the AH!!!! Then you might have something to follow up on! With todays electronics there are many systems that dont break the bank and easy to use! And with the internet and smart phones you can even watch the AH break in and record their action which is helpful for the police! I also have signs about cameras which I hope will help prevent someone from wanting to get caught in the act!
CHAINS ARE ONLY AS STRONG AS THE WEAKEST LINK: You can have the strongest door and the finest locks, one needs to remember the door sits in a door frame, often violent kicking causes the whole door frame to come loose, one should get some extra long screws and run them through the door frame and into the framing structure of the house, more is better.
How long would you suggest the screws should be? I live in military housing with my son who’s in the Army but we live just outside the gate. Our house has almost been broken into 3 times already so any extra precautions I can take I will. Thanks for any input.
The recommended is 2 inches. 3 inches would be certain to go into both the Jack and King studs.
Wally
I HAVE FOUND THAT PUTTING A 2X4 UNDER THE DOOR KNOB WILL HELP SECURE THE DOORS. I ALSO AGREE WITH CAMERAS AS THEY DON’T COST THAT MUCH NOW A DAYS. I LIVE ON $660.00 A MONTH AND DID THINGS A LITTLE AT A TIME. I ALSO TOOK A SAFETY, SHOOTING COURSE AT MY SHERIFF’S OFFICE AND I POSTED MY TARGET TO MY FRONT DOOR 98% CENER MASS. IT MAY NOT LOOK THAT GOOD, BUT I HOPE IT WILL MAKE THE BAD FOLKS GO SOMEWHERE ELSE. I WAS TAUGHT TO STOP ANY THREAT THAT PUTS MY OR OTHERS IN A DEADLY POSITION. I JUST HATE READING THAT PEOPLE WERE PROTECTING THEMSELVES AND SHOT THE BAD FOLKS, BUT THEN ARE BEING SUED FOR WRONGFUL DEATH. I WOULD RATHER BE TRIED BY 12 THEN CARRIED BY 6. PLEASE STAY SAFE OUT THERE. I LIVE IN GA AND NOW WE CAN CARRY IN MORE PLACES. THIS IS A RIGHT THAT LEGAL CARRY PEOPLE SHOULD BE ABLE TO CARRY AND MAY JUST BE THE PERSON WHO SAVES THEMSELFS OR EVEN MORE SAVE OTHERS. I DO THINK PEOPLE SHOULD TAKE A TRAINING COURSE AS PART OF THE CARRY PERMIT LAWS. I WISH EVERYONE THE VERY BEST IN THIS COUNTRY WE NOW LIVE IN. BEST WISHES ALWAYS…
I live in GA. like you do. What sherrif’s office taught you how to shoot the gun you have?
Thanks-
I find your articles interesting, and stimulating. I forward some of them to friends.
A bar in a slider does nothing to secure it.Just lift a little and pull. If someone wants in they will find a way. One of the best I have seen is a fellow that built the entire structure out of cement blocks with window openings only 8″x 16″ with additional steel bars cemented into the openings. The door was three layers of rough cut oak wood run at different angles, that’s a 7″ thick solid hardwood door. Someone took a chain saw and cut a hole in the door big enough to walk thru and stole the only thing inside (a can of cherry pie filling). The owner had not started to finish the inside.
Even armed guards can fall asleep, be bought or be in the wrong place at the wrong time.
Always enjoy your tips Frank. Do you have any tips for securing Windows?
they have a good reinforcement kit for your doors and video showing why our doors are not safe from intruders
This is all well and good, but what happens when you barricade yourself in your fortress and become incapacitated and need help from EMTs or the Fire Department? How do they get in to rescue you if you may also be unconscious? It may be better to band together with other patriots and have someone on armed guard duty 24/7.
Hi! After a breakin the cops suggested that with the alarm system in place not to put a full dowel rode in place. Just long enough to allow the alarm to go off but not short enough for the burgler to enter. Then the alarm goes off and the police are notified but the entrance cannot be gained because the entrance is blocked and the burgler can’t gain entrance. Thanks for all your great tips.
Good advice, but do not forget the door leading into the garage for those homes with an attached garage.Most statistics tells this is the most vulnerable point of entry because we take it for granted.
Yucca plants work well too!!! That’s what I’ve used!!!
We have an outside steel door as our bedroom door with a deadbolt. It looks just like any other 6 panel interior door.
At night, we set the alarm and deadbolt the door.
Our night time vulnerability are our windows. However, they are locked, and covered with blinds and drapes. Any intrusion would give us plenty of warning.
The best mechanism for securing the door while you’re home is also the
simplest. It’s an iron bar set at an angle to the door. It should be
about 3 ft long and set into a foot in the floor and on the door. People
in New York and other cities have been field testing these for about 50
years. They work very well.
Oh, and no one breaks a window it’s very hazardous to deal with the broken glass. Windows are pretty safe as long as the locks on them are in good repair and of high quality.
The front/rear door deadbolts should also be keyed on BOTH sides, and
the inside key removed whenever leaving the home. That way, even if the
baddies break in, they won’t be able to cart your stuff away through
those doors.
To enter my home through the doors there are actually 2 dors which must be unlocked. An airlock in the front whose door must be opened; it has 2 locks. The back door exits into the sunroom which has 2 other doors. The door to the garage is covered by a locking garage door as well as the door which goes to the back yard which also has a storm door.
Rose and holly bushes work well under windows that are vulnerable. They also let you leave the window open on hot nights without too much fear of an intruder; at least through that window!
Pyracantha bushes are ornamental and have totally wicked thorns. They come in all sizes.
good comment about the pyrocantha (sp?) bushes … they’ll deter bad guys and, if that doesn’t work, you get some DNA samples (for which no warrant is required).
Although dead bolts, Peep holes, barking dogs, alarm systems and the other measures mentioned in the article are all helpful, here are three tips I found work best. First and foremost – an NRA (National Rifle Association) or GOA (gun owners of America) or NAGR (National Association for Gun Rights) sticker on your door (about where someone would knock on the door) is far better than an ADT (or other alarm company) sign in your yard.
Would-be burglars generally do NOT want to tangle with an armed and angry home owner and will look for a safer target. Also good: Get some dishes from a thrift store that look as if they were well used by a very large dog. Put a little water in one and something that looks like the remains of dog food in the other (the dishes and the area around them should look “messy”) – and place them by your front door – of course, it would be better if you could borrow a dog from a friend and chain it to your front door for a couple of days – to make the area LOOK like a dog lives there – it will help if you can leave some dried dog feces (get fake “dog poop” at a gag store), then leave the chain still attached to “what ever” when you return the dog. Finally, motion activated lighting outside, and a random light timer inside. If you can find an old-fashioned tape player with a loop tape, record the sound of a very large dog barking, and set THAT up to play at random times.
On MY front door are an NRA sticker, a GOA sticker, and a small target that is peppered with 5 bullet holes, neatly grouped in and around the “bull’s eye” – (today’s paper targets “bleed” a colored ink where they’ve been hit.) The caption that I wrote on the target simply says, “Distance: Across my living room” – Even cops will think twice about forcing their way into your home.
Home alone style!
one of the best ways to secure your doors when you are inside or otherwise is to put a yolked device that in front of it that works much the same way as the good old chair jammed up against it but is obvously much more effective, Even if your door locks are completely unlocked it makes the door completely impassable and has the effect of strengthening the door on the same level of magnatude as putting in longer and stronger strike plates and can be slipped under any door handle in an instant.
Thank you for the suggestion. Where can I purchase a yoke for the doorsÉ
Elizabether and everyone—the leaning brace type unit is called a Pioneer Lock or a Police Lock. It is very straong and Master Lock sells a really good example cheap. Here is a good video about it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luC_NnyMB1I
Pictures would help a lot!.
Take a “Fire Fighting-101” course. The “Forced Entry” class will give you an insight on how to force your way into any house. Those chains that only allow ya’ to open the door part way can be opened with a thumb-tack, paper clip and a rubber band.
If a person wants into your house, they will find a way in. Geese or Peacocks make your best alarms. They’ll keep the bugs down too.
Both my front and back doors are only 75″ tall. So, we Ieave them unlocked……does anyone know where I can get a spare 3-0x75″ door?
If you do not park your car in the garage, put two keyed locks through the roll-up and stable metal on either side of the garage door. For a four by four brace, go to an ironworker to get a four inch wide cast iron brace with a hole for a half inch bolt to go through. Put two braces, one-third down from the top of the door and two braces one third from the bottom of the door. Solid (no glass) doors work best as well as using two-two by fours instead of a four by four which will be harder for you to remove in case of fire. Attached garages are prime burglar entry points because the invader is concealed while trying to get into your house, so don’t let him get into the garage in the first place. If it’s a SHTF scenerio, installing roll-down hurricane shutters with locks are an option.
Also, a chair wedged under the doorknob works well when one is home alone. It worked for me. :0)
Fran–check out this unit from Master Lock. Much stronger than a chair: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=luC_NnyMB1I
It isn’t my doors I’m concerned with; it’s my windows! Those ARE easy to break, right? How do I fortify those?
Not much you can do about windows unless you’re willing to do a lot of work and/or spend a lot of money.
They make barred window guards that attach to the outside — you see a lot of them on ground floor apartments in NYC. Not cheap.
Or you can make plywood shutters, attached by hinges on the inside. Not inherently pretty, but you can glue posters or prints over them, or paint them. Not a bad idea for preppers, either, if you plan on hunkering down in your house when SHTF. I’m working on some with small hinged openings in the middle (gun ports), though even 3/4″ plywood won’t stop most bullets unless you face it with steel & add a lot of weight (requiring heavier hinges). The interior shutters also add tremendous insulation value — important when firewood or fuel may become an issue eventually.
Wroght Iron window guards are excellent protection – go talk to a local fence company about DIY units – just be sure they attache through the wall with a realeas pin you can pull to dump the guards out of the way if you need to use the window as an emergency exit (whether fire, or leaving the thief “home alone”)
Instead of a turn knob on the dead bolt get one with key lock on inside and outside
Thank you!
changed all screws to 3 in deck screws in all doors and plates-drilled hole in floor & installed slide locks @ bottom of all doors-flip over locks @ top of doors & steel chains! have monitored alarm system & 4 camera 24-7 video survailence w-ups(total cost $325 brickhousesecurity.com & upsforless.com)over kill?
1. Add a chain so the door can be opened only part way without closing and removing chain.
2. Deadbolt should be long enough to fit into the 2×4 frame. That may be more than one inch.
3. Add an electric alarm that can be set to call police when away from home over night.
4. Do not allow shrubs to obscure door. They tend to conceal burglars trying to get in house.
5. Add inexpensive timer switches to inside lamps that give impression of occupancy.
If you’ve secured the sliding glass door with an iron gate, make sure you can still get out through it in case of a house fire…you don’t want to be trapped inside!
I have screen doors but they create a “hot-house” effect on the door and it peels the paint off. So, I am forced to leave the sliding glass in the screen slightly up to let air circulate. I don’t think this makes it easier to get through the locked screen door, but it could. I have the dead bolts and two big german shepherds outside–no one comes near without our hearing the barking!!!
If this heat buildup is causing problems, add a couple of 1″ or 2″ holes in the storm doors, top & bottom. However, make sure you also have covers for these holes, since you want that airspace as insulation in the wintertime. One solution I used in a different vent situation was the 2″ plastic plugs used on PVC plumbing pipe — but anything that will neatly force-fit is OK. Duct-tape the holes in the winter, if that’s all you can figure out.
Actually, if the door & paint are good quality, the heat buildup shouldn’t be a problem, and that insulating airspace will help the A/C keep the house cool, too.
Another thing that many people do not know is that storm windows MUST be vented to function properly and keep the wood sills from rotting. There should be a couple of small (1/8″ or so) weep holes at the bottom corners of each storm window, right thru the aluminum. Holes should be located right above the sill surface so that trapped condensation moisture can drip out instead of sitting on the wood. Poke at those holes occasionally to keep debris from clogging them. Everyone knew this 50 years ago, but it seems to have been forgotten, even by many storm window manufacturers & installers. Why 1/8″ holes? Bigger ones let in too many larger bugs.
Another basic rule that, amazingly, seems to be ignored now is that gutters MUST BE SLOPED!!!!! As much as the length will allow, ideally 1/4″ per foot, just like drain & sewage lines. Otherwise leaves & debris won’t get properly flushed out & will clog the gutters & drainpipes. Very important, especially if you’re relying on rainwater when SHTF. There are now some clever drainpipe designs which reduce clogs, like the RAIN-GO system. You really don’t want leaves, bugs or twigs in contact with your “water supply” any more than absolutely necessary — and keep in mind that runoff from your roof has inherent problems you must plan for, like filtering out shingle & other contaminants, and using something like bleach or HTH to kill microorganisms.
Be very careful about collecting rain water – in many areas today you must have a permit – or make sure the Planing and Zoning snoops can’t see it. Also, health safety tip get a bio-filter for that water – one with .02 micron or smaller filtraton (rememver – poiint 02 is better than point 1! Some folks have trouble with that)
I disagree with putting viewers in a door. If an intruder is armed with a gun and is determined to get in regardless of who is home, looking out a viewer that goes through a door gives the intruder a perfect head shot as soon as you put your eye to that typed of viewer. A remote view is safer and can give you more information about the intruder and his back up and vehicles.
Now that basic video cameras & viewers have become so cheap, there’s no reason to use a door peephole. Even the used baby-monitor type setups will work fine. Check eBay for cheap used ones. Don’t need high quality or color, just basic B&W to see what’s out there.
One of the best doors is a “Fire Door” (metal covered) with a steel frame. 3″ deck screws or brass boat screws for hinges. Commercial door latch AND deadbolt make the best. Window glass can be replaced with Lexan greenhouse panels – lets in light AND eliminates the “fading effect” ( MUCH stronger than glass).
Use at least 3″ screws on hinges and strike plates.
Your 5 things are important but the most important is #6 . Reinforce the king stud. That is the wood post that the deadbolt “slides” into. ( the door frame ) This can be done by using a piece of red iron “c” channel full height around the stud. Screw the channel to the stud and drill out for the bolt. This makes it very difficult for anyone using a “ram” the break out the jam to gain entry. ( red iron is a heavy gauge metal available through building supply stores)
In the day I used to drill a hole in the window sill side that would be just enough to get alittle fresh air 4-5″ insert a long NAIL. It worked the sliding glass doorin the center frame there is a commercial device that is a pin that goes thur the layers of the frame so it becomes solid on lift out there. Dogs help,be armed but be aware,
Heres my story, kid came to the door pleding for help I let the kid almost in when the others rounded the corner on the top step the kid coming in go a blast in the knee –what a shock–for him the others gathered him up and they got an over head blast and a warning. NOT HERE EVER.
Strange how that makes the neighbors look at you from then on. But it began to give them a backBONE too. If a woman will stand her ground then why not the men. Years later I found I am a DAR decendant. Guess its in the blood!? Be ready at all times. Be aware of your surroundings and by all means never doubt your power as a human to respond. Stand up for right, and others will follow.Lead by example!! Thank you all for your efforts to protect yourselves and our country.
Installed a strike plate that runs entire length of my door with cut outs for both knob set & dead bolt.
Long screws with pilot holes drilled so screws don’t break off. Dont use stainless screws, heads strip out too easily. Redoing my back door with 4 x 6 treated wood so it can take the ones who think they can kick in the door. Solid doors only with no glass on my house & all open inside. Windows 1/4″ glass with film and do not open.
Re the sliding glass door; in addition to the wooden dowel, ensure that your sliding glass door cannot be lifted out of the tracks from the outside.
When I had a new house built in Colorado Springs back in the 1980s, I installed a security system that had wireless sensors (mounted with double-faced tape) on all doors and windows. About two months after moving in, the security system alarm sounded at about 2:00AM. When checking all doors and windows, I discovered the sensor on the sliding door was loose except for the bottom edge of the tape, indicating that the door had been lifted.
Since I didn’t want to install a different a whole new sliding door that could not be lifted, I drilled a small hole in the door frame at the front and back top corners, and put a screw in each hole, thus preventing it from being lifted out of the track.
The builder of the same house did not install a garage door opener. At move in time, the keys to the door lock could not be located. Knowing that anyone with the keys could open the garage door even though I locked it from the inside, I cut a short piece of 2″ x 4″ to wedge between the top of the door and the garage ceiling. A fortunate thing because I discovered the door unlocked about a week after moving in. Only a person (a thieving carpenter, no doubt) with the key could have unlocked the door. I had a garage door opener installed the same day, which made the use of a key to open the door almost impossible.
The person who intended to burgle my house apparently had watched to see when I was moved in, but hadn’t planned on my action to at least partly secure my home. He/they hadn’t also noted my back-up security system — two very protective and vocal Dachshunds!!
I installed steel reinforcing plate called a strikeforce two on all my doors. All my windows got film on them. I also drilled a 6″ deep hole in the floor so I can insert a three foot steel rod. On the front door I added a second hole 6″ back so I can insert it and open the door and it’s still blocked.
When installing the strike plates in the frame, Throw away those 3/4 inch brass screws. You may need to pre-drill the holes, but use 3 inch deck screws. these screws go through the door frame and into the 2 x 4’s that the door is “rough” framed with. Do this for the doorknob and especially the deadbolt. this makes the door a lot harder to kick in.
Also consider installing a plate on the outside of the door to cover the strike. if you can slip a credit card in when the door is closed, your door that isn’t deadbolted, can be opened quicker than with a key!!!
Good advice — you should always use galvanized or stainless steel deck screws since the ordinary ones corrode & get weak very quickly, even when buried in an outside wall or door frame.
Life is also simpler if you get the square-drive screws and the bit to drive them. I think one brand is Posi-drive. Much better than the Phillips type that burn up bits like crazy when you drive long screws.
a good lock picker can get past the typical locks on doors..schlage locks are more difficult and locks with double edge keys are very difficult to pick ..have to be drilled if you lose a key
Also too….it was not mentioned that “IF” your door opens to the outside, the hinges are on the outside too, making it easy for one to knock out the pins of the hinges, and allowing the door to open from the opposite side. Adding 2-4 buck-pins in door (on the side the hinges are on) keeps this from happening, Buck-pins are 3 – 4 6″ inch screws that are screwed into the door, an closed just enough to mark the frame on the hinge side, and then 3/16″ hole drilled in about 1 1/4″ into the door frame. and with the heads cut off of the screws, allowing them to fit into the drilled holes and serves as 3-4 dead bolts on the other side of the door from the other locks. Rendering the door secure! (A crowbar cannot open the door because it is dead bolted on both sides,, and the Buck Pins never have to be removed..
I have a steel door but when he tryed to go through the window next to it. i shot him in the head and that stoped him but after all the drama and the city problems after that i put 3 layers of 3m security tint on all my windows. The death of one man over security tint won’t happening agin
I learned that at the advice of boyfriend years ago, (he installed a viewer and a deadbolt lock on my apartment door with management approval). I was able to get a view of a man quickly trying to break into my apartment (within seconds he jiggled loose my cylinder lock). he was not able to get in. don’t know if he heard me as I quietly backed off to call the police (quietly made way to kitchen to call in low voice). The man had taken off and the cops arrived but I was not able to do anything about it. was told he had to be caught in the act even though I said I could identify him. I was upset. I came up with this idea. When you have someone constantly ringing your doorbell (not sure if it was the cubans or cuban I could identify) or some childhood friend who I didn’t trust anymore after he joked about rape one day. (and I told him angrily, that that kind of joking was not funny) I decided to myself that he was no longer allowed to visit me. I stopped being his friend. I stuck a clothespin under the bell (metal alarm) inside my apartment, so I didn’t have to hear my doorbell ring at all, and if anyone was trying to see if I was home or not, they couldn’t tell. I varied coming and going times and stayed alert. and finally got armed with a weapon to defend myself. I was not afraid to use it. By the way, I began to wonder, that sometimes, some self-defense methods are best kept to oneself. (because there are people that just talk too much and it gets into the wrong person’s ears, then there go the secret defense methods)!
Good Afternoon, I have all the items you identified above. I would like to place a 4 x 4 on my side doors as it doesn’t have a store door. I am wondering if there are holders that would allow a 4×4 to swing up and latch or swing down to extend between the door and wall when in the down position. I have looked for these but have had no luck. If you have questions as to what I am talking about, please email me. Thanks Don
I’ve had the wood trim pried from the door frame and the latch poped as easily as turning the knob. This was back in the 70s, but it still works. A locked door knob isn’t enough… Since then I have always installed a dead bolt, and/or lockable sliding latch.
Goog thinking I need to upgrade asap.
Just want to mention that you can purchase, what looks like an efficient, and mobile door jam from the NRA catalog. Could buy you some time or save your life!
i liked your door protection ideas, they are good —– but what about this ——- did you ever notice that commercial establishments doors always open out–its the law in case of fire etc. I replaced my entry doors to also open out almost impossible to kick in, sure you have to use anti pick hinge pins or weld the normal pins in place , but its worth it, anti-pick lock covers are also needed for the best protection. what do you think frank ? thanks for all of your work
Try to avoid welding your hinge pins. Modern refrigerators have gotten so large that most of the time you have to pop hinges & remove the door to move the appliance in and out. Had to do it first on my 25 cu ft model about 15 yrs ago, so opted for a noticeably smaller fridge this time — still had to pop the hinge pins on this one.
Haven’t seen the anti-pick hinge pins, but they sound like a better idea. Putting an extra deadbolt on the hinge side of the door would also solve this problem.
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